An American in Paris

The online journal of several months abroad... in the City of Light. The chronicles, discoveries, anecdotes, and reflections that go with an American's life in the capital of France.

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Monday, September 25, 2006

Visiting Rose

This particular American-in-Paris spent this past weekend visiting her sister in Normandy. :) And while she was there, it struck her that their experiences this year, although both are in France, will resemble the differences between the country mouse and the city mouse in the well-known fable. But it works out very well for them, because whenever one needs a change of pace, she has only to visit the other! :)

Here are a few pictures from my brief sojourn to the country:

Cours Ste Catherine de Sienne... thataway! :)
Rose, in her little room at the school
In front of the large main entrance to the place
La chapelle...
Here, Rose sets the table for Sunday lunch in the 'parloir'

Signing off now,
The City Mouse :D

Monday, September 18, 2006

Rose's Visit

Well, Rose returned to St. Manvieu-Norrey (in Normandy) Saturday afternoon, after a three day visit to my flat here in Paris. It was so nice to see her again! We didn't do too much of the touristy stuff, but we did make it to L'Arc de Triomphe (albeit not to the top) and Notre Dame (even though it was closed, so we only saw the outside :)). Here are a few pictures from her visit...

Rose, the first evening in Paris, with the Seine River and Notre Dame de Paris behind her:
Enjoying the morning out on a balcony six floors up. :)
At the Arc de Triomphe...
At the Square des Batignolles...

Tuesday, September 12, 2006

300 and counting...


Thank you, all, for visiting this blog!

St. Nicolas du Chardonnet

I entered the Parisian metro at the Malesherbes station about 9:30 Sunday morning... 3 lines, 18 stops, and 45 minutes later, I emerged into the daylight, two blocks away from St. Nicolas du Chardonnet. I followed a group of "trad" looking people who appeared to know each other to the church. Yes! I successfully made it to St. Nicolas yesterday for the 10:30 Mass!! (Last week, you see, I missed Mass :( because I didn't realize it would take an hour to travel six miles and I didn't have a map with me.) I was very happy to be there... at Mass in a foreign country is the best way to truly realize that the Catholic church is indeed one and universal.

From the back of the Church, at the end of the 9 am Mass:
This huge crucifix was beautiful!

It seems that the habit of chatting with friends outside after Mass is just as universal as the Mass itself! ;)

Saturday, September 09, 2006

The French Do "Small" Smaller Than Most

I just HAVE to share this essay with y'all!! It would be absolutely hilarious... except for the fact that is not in the least exaggerated. I can vouch for it. (All the same, I admit to having laughed at loud while reading it. :)) Taken from BootsnAll Travel, this is absolutely worth the read!!!

Housing Plight in City of Light
Paris, France

The computer screen taunts me with photos of charming Parisian apartments with minuscule dimensions. My two-year-old is dancing to Hi-5, having given up on the promised trip to the park. Finding a flat for our six-week stay in the French capital has become my latest obsession.

Our requirements consist of a two-bedroom apartment easily accessible to the Latin Quarter, where I will be studying in July. My research has been enlightening as I learn not to take anything for granted, not even walls.

My findings are baffling: traditional two-bedroom apartments apparently are rare in Paris. Some bedrooms are partitioned off with screens, curtains and "vertically exposed beams." In some apartments, the number of beds doesn't equate to the number of people supposedly sleeping there. How French.

Sometimes, the second bedroom is on a mezzanine floor, which is often not full height. Some lofts are only as wide as the bed and others don't have railings; I guess that's not a problem as long as you don't roll out of bed. Although, when you are putting on your jeans while crouching, you could lose your balance and topple over the edge into the living room. Often the beds are hidden away in cupboards, a system known as a Murphy bed.

I have images of the bed lurching up in the middle of the night and its occupant disappearing until the cleaner appears (hopefully to change the sheets). Meanwhile, the flatmate lies unconscious on the dining-room table. I guess that's what travel insurance is for. It's lucky, then, that in many cases the bedrooms have the proportions of a coffin, preparing you for the inevitable.

Behind the elegant façades of 19th-century buildings, many of these apartments are walk-ups. Some advertise lifts but are honest enough to admit they don't go up to all floors of the apartment building; assuming the lift works, of course. I wonder how quaint the winding staircase seems when you're lugging your belongings up to your bohemian apartment with Eiffel Tower-top views?

After such an ordeal you could cool off in the shower, which probably is in the bedroom. Then wash your clothes while sitting on the toilet in the kitchen. How's that for convenience? As you put your feet up at the end of the day, you can gaze into the mirrored walls and imagine there really is another room that looks exactly the same as the one you're in.

Just when I think the French have thrown all the rules out the former window, it happens. I find an available apartment in the Latin Quarter, complete with worn parquetry flooring and large windows filling the rooms with light. Now I just need to convince the agency to rent it to me.

Fearing that handing over exorbitant amounts of money isn't enough, I send super-polite emails that are replied to with curt responses. "Oui, madame, the bathroom does contain a bath, as the name suggests." Finally, I am triumphant as an obscene amount of money is charged to my credit card. At last, I can dream of my fling with the City of Light. Lights? Hang on, I didn't ask, but surely...


It's true! It's true!! I am currently living in a SPACIOUS studio apartment in Paris... it's 14 square meters. No, I'm not being facetious - that's spacious for Paris. The average studio apartment here is an incredible SEVEN meters square!! Nonetheless, I had to laugh when I read the above essay because the people I work for live on the sixth floor of an apartment building... the elevator stops at the fifth floor and you climb the spiral stairs to the sixth. I have no clue why, but it's simply accepted here. (Not to mention that the elevators have the same sizing problem the apartments they take you to have... you can fit two adults and a child into the elevator. Forget anything besides that. If it's a REALLY big load you're taking down - for example, a suitcase ;) - you'd better have one person go down first, then send the suitcase down by itself - to be picked up by the awaiting person - and then go down yourself. Or take the six flights of stairs.)

Oh, and the lights! They make up for all their outdoor lights by not having them indoors... makes perfect sense to me. (Not.) My apartment has a bathroom light. Period. I begin to think that I was fortunate to get even that! The place isn't even wired for an overhead bedroom light and I imagine that if one were to mention the desirability of such a feature, the Parisian construction crew wouldn't understand WHY such a thing would be desirable. ;)

And the comment about lugging your baggage up the winding staircase is too close to home to be funny... I'll laugh about it one day, I'm sure, but lugging my worldly possessions up four flights of very narrow spiral stairs was no picnic! Wow! ...my blister is almost gone...

Here is a bit of photographic evidence. :) And for those of you Americans reading this, just remember that "spacious skies" aren't the only things that are spacious in America the Beautiful! ;)

Picture a little kitchenette to the left and a SMALL bathroom to the right and there you have the whole apartment! (Note my "closet" on the wall above my bed and the lamp for lack of an overhead light. :))
This is the view from in the bathroom... my kitchen (albeit without counter space to speak of, with only two burners, and no oven of any kind), my dining room, and my office all wrapped into one! :D
And those picturesque, but not so fun, spiral stairs! :)

Thank you for touring my home! Come again anytime... you can't say I didn't warn you! :)

Friday, September 08, 2006

Pictures (and explanations): Cluny

On August 28, we went to Cluny with M. Lhomme... it was quite fascinating to see what remained of "the Lighthouse of the Occident" and to imagine what it must have been in its prime! The place was absolutely huge at one time. It had quarters enough to host 2000+ guests at one time (i.e. the king and the pope at the same time, witht their entire entourages) and it spawned more than 1500 (if I remember rightly) monasteries throughout Europe in the centuries that followed its commencement. Unfortunately, very little remains of it, thanks to the Revolution... and even more unfortunately, the majority of what remains has been turned chiefly into a university and a stud farm. One of the streets in the town of Cluny runs right through what used to be the nave of the church! :( All the same, to see the ruins gives one an idea of the grandeur that was once there... the museum of the abbey was one of the most fascinating parts!!! And best of the rooms that we saw in the museum (it closed before we could get all the way through it) was the library! There they had some of the most incredible old books... the one I remember the best was the Rule of the Order of St. Benedict... printed in the fifteenth century! There was a whole room that had all its walls completely lined, floor to ceiling, with books of this kind!

Anyway, on to the pictures (which cannot do the place justice)!

The building which housed the guest quarters, I believe... now a university dorm, I think.
This is a to-scale model of Cluny in its original state... it's hard to tell in the picture, but the metallic part (the far right section of the model in the picture) is what can be seen standing today. The wooden part is what is no longer around. And if you look closely, you might be able to see the to-scale monk that is standing on the sidewalk to the right of the building in the picture... that gives you an idea of the size!!!!
Here is what remains of one arm of the main church of Cluny.
This is a chapel that was built later. It was really fascinating because the statues that can still be seen today are prophets from the Old Testament and the statues that they supported (more than symbolically!) were the evangelists of the New Testament... unfortunately, these were destroyed in the Revolution.
A view of the remaining towers...
(As you can see, the weather was not the most cooperative for a day of exploring ruins. :/)
This building was the one wherein they kept the flour, and the basement of the same building was the wine cellar. The boat-shaped, chestnut rafters were a novelty at the time and their benefit was two-fold: their shape allowed the storage of more barrels of flour and the chestnut wood has a natural insecticide in it and kept the bugs from the flour - to this day, there is no need to clean cobwebs off the rafters!
Here you can see part of a leather model of Cluny! It was made by a cobbler over a century ago and donated to Cluny. The little tower (left one of the three main towers you see) and the smaller tower to the left of it are what remain of the church today.
Voila! Brittany and Audrey walking in the rain. :D
This was taken standing in what used to be the nave. To the left you can see what used to be the columns in the church - note their size! - and in the distance a little ways you can see the double archway that was the entrance to the monastery.
Huddled under an umbrella with Cluny behind us. :) ...Brittany, Audrey, Rémi, and myself...
Here, in 2-D, one can see what is and what was... the drawn buildings are what we saw in person; the rest was left to our imagination. Remember the size around of the columns from the picture above? Note that there were four rows of those columns in the nave alone!!!
This is one of the only pictures I was able to take in the museum. It is just to show the size of the fireplace necessary to heat a normal-sized room! They hardly would have had to split the wood at all... one could fit a small tree into a fireplace that size! :)
And, finally, a picture of the town of Cluny and the two towers that remain...

Pictures: Chateau Pierreclos

So here are more pictures! :)

On Sunday, August 27, Mme. Lhomme took Brittany, Audrey, Rémi and myself to Chateau Pierreclos, near Macon... we took a tour (fortunately, the tour guide knew French AND English) which was pretty fascinating and at the end, we got to sample wine! :) I had three kinds of white wine... all were good! ;)

This was the view as I got out of the car!
Here is Brittany...
This is the little chapel that was adjacent to the chateau.
And here we are in front of it. :) L to R: Brittany, myself, Audrey
The chateau kitchen... in the French explanation, I understood the guide to say that they used the hooks on the ceiling (you can see them on the underside of the archway in the picture) to hang dogs from... I assumed this meant that they ate dogmeat back then or something. In fact, it turned out that they hung the butchered meat on hooks in the ceiling to keep it FROM the dogs!! LOL!!! Audrey had a good laugh over that one. :)
And the wine cellar!
This is looking around outside, afterwards...
Vineyards seem to be within sight, any direction you look! :)

Thursday, September 07, 2006

Pictures: Arrival

I am finally able to get some pictures online... yay! :) Here is the first installment... Operation Takeoff and Arrival

In the KC International Airport, Brittany and I... little knowing at this time that we would have a delayed flight from KC which would cause us to miss our connecting flight in Chicago which would domino effect and cause us to miss our connection in London... and on top of it all, leave us each without luggage for two weeks!
Here I am on the trans-Atlantic flight to London-Heathrow... okay, so plane pictures are never any good! ;)
The little bitty toothbrush and even tinier toothpaste that British Airways handed out... lol!
Brittany and I got a kick out of the girl on the bathroom signs in the London airport. :D
The view from my window in Macon, the first morning we were in France... that's when in sank in that we had arrived! Behold the French countryside (more-or-less)! :) (Thank you, Virginie, for the loan of your room!!)
Brittany setting the table for an outdoor lunch... up and to the right in the picture is the neighbor's vineyard.
The back of the house...

GOOD NEWS

MY LUGGAGE ARRIVED LAST NIGHT!!! YAY!!!

Even better news: (I was up 'til 2 AM putting everything away and) IT ALL FITS!! :D
(Okay, so the place doesn't exactly feel spacious, but hey, I can turn around!)




No, seriously, it all has a place to go and the biggest problem is where to store my suitcases in the meantime... I think they might wind up in the country house of Cabourg...

The not so great news is that I was still hoping to get eight hours of sleep, but promptly at 8 AM the construction crew arrived to continue renovations on the second floor apartment beneath me. *sigh!* It sounded like they were dropping plates onto the courtyard below for the sheer pleasure of hearing the sound of them break... I don't really think that's what they were doing (you never know... they're French after all :P), but it SURE sounded like it! :)

The moral of the story: wait and unpack in the morning. ;)

Pictures coming soon! Stay tuned!

Tuesday, September 05, 2006

Two Weeks in!!

Well, bonjour! :P Okay, I realize that's really cliché but I HAD to say it. :)

Day after tomorrow will be two weeks since I left home. Two days after tomorrow will be two weeks since I got to France. It's gone slowly and quickly at the same time. It's gone slowly because it's all new (most especially the language!) and because my luggage still hasn't arrived (thank you, London-Heathrow) and I've had to rotate 3.5 outfits for the past 12 days... ugh.
However! The good news is that my bags will be arriving no later than Thursday evening!!! YAY!!! Of course, the dilemma after that will be - how to single-handedly transport my very American-sized luggage up the four flights of very French-sized spiral stairs to my little studio apartment. (And thereafter, where to put all my things?)

I spent my first week in France staying with a very hospitable and kind family in Macon (near Lyons). I was with Brittany for the week and we had a very good time... it was a very positive introduction to life in France. We were so fortunate as to see a nearby chateau (Pierreclos), Cluny, Paray-le-Monial, Lyons, and (of course) Macon. As soon as I can (maybe this weekend?), I'll post a few pictures...
This past Friday, I took the TGV from Macon to Paris... only to discover upon arrival that my apartment was still in the throes of renovation!! There was nothing there but white dust, paint, and a big mess!! So it was off to Cabourg for the weekend where I stayed with the lady I'm working for and her daughter whom I'm nannying, in their country house near the English Channel! Unfortunately, it was a cold, rainy, and grey weekend... but I can still say, for the record, that I have put my feet into the English Channel! ;)
On Sunday, it was back to Paris where I was pleasantly greeted by a now-finished, newly-renovated apartment. It's very small, but it suffices for my needs. It has a little kitchenette, a bedroom and a split bathroom. It has French-style (duh) windows, which overlook the courtyard four stories below. The decor (if it can be called that) is in a blue and white theme. It's on a quiet street but very nearby the rush and hubbub of Parisian life, should I care to submerge myself in that whirlpool. ;) There is an SSPX chapel a little more than a mile away, and the well-known (in Society circles) St. Nicolas is six miles from my humble abode.

So... I'm here at last!!! I'll keep you updated with my various adventures... of which there are SURE to be some. :)

It's 12:20 pm here and 5:20 am at home...
God bless!

A bientot!